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GET A GREAT
HAIR CUT
IN ANY SCENARIO |
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CUT |
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| Q: |
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I took the plunge and cut my hair super short and I hate it. What can I do until it grows back? |
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| ROY: |
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I completely sympathize with you. There's nothing worse than hating your hair, after all, unlike an unflattering lipstick shade or pair of jeans, you can't just simply stop wearing it. However, let's take a moment and appreciate your daring and willingness to make a change. I heartily applaud your spirit and you should too. But that also may be the exact reason you are so unhappy with your new look—because it's such a drastic departure from the way you've looked in the past. So I say, embrace this new you and continue to be daring and make changes until your new style becomes "you." Try experimenting with styling products and tools to achieve different looks: MOUSSE PLUS alcohol free volumizing foam styler will add texture and create a tousled effect; scrunching in Phyto Organics Sea Swell Ocean Air Texture Mist will give you beachy ripples, and SleekStyle calming smoothing creme will impart a smooth sophistication. Try blowing your hair dry with a paddle brush for ultra smoothness, a round brush for some lift, and never underestimate the power of self-grip or hot rollers to juice up any style. Experimenting with new makeup looks and different styles of jewelry are also great ways to shake things up a bit. Who knows? You may fall so in love with one of these options that you'll never grow to great lengths again! |
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I am full-figured with a round face, what kind of hair-cut would be the most flattering for me? |
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| ROY: |
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Oh let's not limit yourself to one kind of hair cut. To me, nearly everyone, can wear long, short, curly, and/or straight hairstyles; it just depends on the cut. No matter what your face shape or physique; your cut needs to work with your proportions, your hair texture, and suit your personal style. In general, though, you might want to avoid styles that are overly big and full since they can add width. You might also want to try side-parts and side-swept bangs, which will give a leaner look than short straight ones. |
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I have very curly hair and I don't feel like it looks polished and professional unless it's blown out straight. Is there anyway that I can wear it curly and still look chic? |
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| ROY: |
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Chic is definitely in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I think curly hair can be extremely fashionable so my first advice to you would be to embrace your look and wear it like you mean it. While curly hair may not be viewed as "corporate" as straight hair in some circles, it has its own unique and effective attributes. Wearing your hair curly will help you to come off as free- thinking and independent, rather than a person who bows to conventions, which can be a powerful professional tool. That being said, there are many ways you can wear your hair au natural yet prevent it from taking a walk on the wild side. The first and most important styling tool is to get a great haircut by a professional who is ultra experienced in cutting curly hair. He or she can give you a style that promotes curl definition rather than separation, which equals bushiness. Air-drying rather than heat styling will also help you maintain smoother strands. You can also try gently twisting sections of hair when it is wet to transform your curls into more defined ringlets—the smaller the sections the tighter the curls. Comb through with your fingers when dry. Lastly, on those days when you won't be under such scrutiny, why not give you and your hair a break and just let it do its own thing? It will not only thank you for the day off but you might also be pleasantly surprised at how groovy and sexy your style looks. |
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The whole tipping thing has me quite flummoxed. I, of course, want to show my appreciation for a job well done but I never know if I am short changing people or going overboard. Do you have any guidelines? |
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| ROY: |
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You’re right, this is kind of a grey area but I do think it’s wonderful that you want to thank people who go the extra mile. In general, I would have to say that whomever touches your hair and leaves you with a positive experience deserves at least a buck or two. That being said, you also need to leave an amount you are comfortable spending. My loose recommendations would be to tip the person who shampoos you $2-$5, the person who does your blowout anywhere from $5-$10, and your colorist or stylist about 20% of the cost of the service. |
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I've just moved to a new city and can't seem to find a stylist I can fall in love with. Do you have any suggestions? |
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| ROY: |
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Come visit us at the Roy Teeluck salon. I am sure we can find you someone you can commit to. But all kidding aside, there are a few things you can do to get you closer to meeting your match. As you know, getting good recommendations is a great start to getting a good haircut. If you don't know many people in your new town, ask the women you see at work, in the locker room, store, or even on the street who have a style you like where they go. Once you've gathered up a few names and places, I suggest you actually go to the salon on one of its busier days and look at the hair on the women coming out. If you like what you see, schedule a consultation to see if you and the stylist click. |
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The whole tipping thing has me quite flummoxed. I, of course, want to show my appreciation for a job well done but I never know if I am short changing people or going overboard. Do you have any guidelines? |
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| ROY: |
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You're right, this is kind of a grey area but I do think it's wonderful that you want to thank people who go the extra mile. In general, I would have to say that whomever touches your hair and leaves you with a positive experience deserves at least a buck or two. That being said, you also need to leave an amount you are comfortable spending. My loose recommendations would be to tip the person who shampoos you $2-$5, the person who does your blowout anywhere from $5-$10, and your colorist or stylist about 20% of the cost of the service. |
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I’ve heard people talking about
their hair going into “scissors shock” when they are unhappy with
the way their hair looks after a haircut. What does that mean? |
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| ROY: |
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It just means that some hair didn’t react well to being
manhandled, a.k.a cut. A cut involves a lot of manipulation of the hair, which
could send it into “shock” for a few days, meaning certain areas
may look out of whack. But before you panic, give it at least 10 days before
you judge the haircut. Things should calm down by then, if it’s a good
one.
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I am trying to grow out my chemically
straightened hair and it’s killing me! The roots are curly and completely
clash with the rest of my hair. How should I get it cut to make it look
like I have just one style instead of two competing with each other? I’d
like to try and keep my length. |
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| ROY: |
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You may not be happy about this, but to be honest with you, the only thing that I have found to work in these situations is a good and proper hair cut (how many inches come off depends on your hair’s present length and condition.) In addition to losing some length, having layers cut throughout your hair will go far in helping to blend your curly roots into your straight mid-shafts and ends.
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How often do I need to get my hair cut? Everyone says six-to-eight weeks but is that really true? |
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| ROY: |
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To be honest with you, any salon owner or hairstylist would love to have you sitting in his chair the proverbial six-to-eight weeks (we have to pay our bills, too, you know.) But in reality, it's not a one-size-fits-all proposition. Actually, you know yourself, when it's time for at least a trim. It's the day when you wake up and your hair looks terrible no matter what you to do to it even though it's been looking fabulous for weeks. |
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Help! I've just gotten the worst haircut of my entire life; I feel like crying every day. Is there anything I can do to fix it? |
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| ROY: |
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Tears every day? That's truly the sign of a horrible hair cut. The good news is that in a mere six weeks it will look better all on its own. But of course we can't let you go on like this until then, so here are a few things to do in the meantime:
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If someone butchers your hair, it's customary for the salon to give you a 'do over for free—either by the person who you saw the first time around (he might have just had a bad day) or by another stylist. |
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If the idea of going back to the scene of the crime fills you with dread, I would then go to the most reputable salon in your town and have a consultation with its top stylist. A free consultation is a service nearly every salon provides and you should take it advantage of it. If you bond with the pro, let them take a stab at it. Hopefully, he or she can correct some, if not all of, the problems—even if your hair has to be shorter than you'd like. |
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If you feel like your hair is just too short to cut any more off, start experimenting with different styling products. Mousse will give you more bounce, gel a sleek effect, and pomade a hip, piecey tousled look. You can try tucking pieces behind your ears, slicking your hair straight back, roughing it up or creating curls with a curling iron or rollers. You might be surprised at how cute you end up looking. |
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All this talk about long versus short layers is very confusing. How
do I know what the best layer length is for me? |
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| ROY: |
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Darling, in order to get a great hair cut in any scenario, it's
much more important to talk to your stylist about the overall look
you'd like, how much you're willing to do to achieve it, and how
frequently you're prepared to pop by the salon to maintain it. You'll
be far more likely to have a cut you'll love than if you just discuss
layering. |
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The truth about trims Rumor has it that getting regular trims will help make your hair grow faster. But I’m sorry to say, that the facts are much less fun than fiction. Having one’s ends snipped off has nothing to do with the rate at which our hair will grow. Regular trims will, however, eliminate the dried out, damaged, and/or scraggly parts thereby making hair look healthier and thicker.
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Speeding up hair growth While French mythology maintains that if you get your hair cut under a full moon it will grow faster, and product advertisements assert they can take you from short to long in nothing flat, your hair grows only about a half an inch to perhaps an inch each month. Unfortunately, nothing has been proven beyond a shadow of a doubt to change that statistic.
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Deciding on a super-short hair cut If you're on the fence about whether or not to cut your hair super short—a look I love—try on a few wigs to see if you like the effect. There's nothing worse than regretting a major change that takes ages to fix.
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Getting the perfect cut Bringing in pictures of people whose look you like is just part of the process of getting the perfect cut. It also helps to bring in pictures of yourself where you really like the way your hair looks and ones where you really don't. Many people think that stylists get annoyed by clients bringing in pictures but we actually like it. It really helps us to get a clear understanding of your version. |
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Growing in your bangs
If you’ve trimmed your own bangs with less than professional results, you may not have to wait it out for them to grow in to look better. When you can, head to your stylist; she may be able to thin out their ends so the lines won’t look so harsh and obvious. You can also go with a layered cut that gives you lift and movement all around your head being sure that there are soft layers framing your face. |
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If you have a longish face, bangs aren't your only option. If you have a longish face, bangs, while always a good choice, aren't your only option. You can also go with a layered cut that gives you lift and movement all around your head being sure that there are soft layers framing your face. |
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Growing out bangsTo make growing out bangs less painful, never under estimate the power of changing your part. Try pushing them to the side and using a strong hold gel such as EXXTRA GEL super hold styling sculptor to blend them into the longer pieces that frame your face. A middle part can look very bohemian as long as your bangs are completely straight. Despite what you may have heard, slicking them straight back really doesn't work for anyone.
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Conceal a style that's long over due for a hair cut To conceal a style that's long over due for a hair cut, break out a curling iron or rollers. Curly hair shrinks up so that split ends and breakage are less visible. You'll also juice up the volume on too long, limp, and layers.
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MAKE COLOR GO THE DISTANCE |
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COLOR |
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| Q: |
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In one of Roy’s past quick tips, he suggests getting Baliage instead of "conventional foil wrapped" highlights. Can you explain the difference? |
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| NANCY: |
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When creating traditional highlights, a colorist uses a comb to lift up the hair and place little squares of color throughout the head in an almost a graph-like pattern. To me, this technique leads to unnatural looking color since it is so blocky—the sun would never color hair that precisely. Plus, as your hair grows out, the individual squares of color will be more and more obvious. Baliage, or Balayage, is a French technique where you paint on the color free hand without specific separations. This creates a more vibrant and sun-kissed effect that grows out more gracefully than conventional highlights. |
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I have incredibly frizzy hair; is it ok to color it? |
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| ROY: |
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Since my dear friend and genius colorist Nancy Braun is here with me today, I am going to turn this month's coloring questions over to her extremely capable hands. |
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| NANCY: |
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The short answer is yes, you can color frizzy hair. But the key to keeping your hair as frizz-free as possible is to add color rather than lighten up your natural shade. I find color to be more emollient and conditioning than lightening products, which contain ultra-drying bleach. You should also go for processes without ammonia, which also can exacerbate your problem. Another way to hedge your bets is to make sure your hair is in great shape before you color it. Try doing a series of deep conditioning or hot oil treatments as directed a few weeks beforehand. Once your hair is colored, be sure to use shampoos and conditioners created especially to pamper color-treated hair such as COLOR ASSURE replenishing nutrient shampoo and COLOR ENSURE replenishing conditioner and detangler. |
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I just colored my hair and I hate it. Short of going to a pro, is there anything I can do to fix it? |
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| ROY: |
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Actually, your end result may not be as bad as you think. First off, all color-treated hair looks better if it has time to settle in; it's always preternaturally bright or dark right after it's been done. You may find after a week or so, when the toner starts to fade, that you actually like your new hue. A friend of mine hated her highlights for a full two weeks if not longer and now is in love with them. If, however, that's not the case for you and you're still distraught, try washing several times with a clarifying shampoo, such as our ALOE RID gentle clarifying shampoo, which should help to lift out some of the color. Be sure to follow up with our HUMECTRESS ultimate moisturizing conditioner, to ensure your locks stay well moisturized. Still not getting the color you crave? Then I urge you to seek out a top colorist rather than trying to fix it yourself. Layering one color on top of another is a tricky business and usually results in even more unhappiness when performed by unskilled hands. In the future, you might be able to avert such dye disasters by testing out your chosen color on some strands of hair not visible to the public eye, such as those in the underneath layer around the nape of your neck. |
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My hair is very long, will that make it harder to color? |
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| ROY: |
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While it certainly won’t make it harder it will require a greater investment of time from you and your colorist. Just be sure to keep getting your ends trimmed regularly to prevent them from becoming damaged. Typically dry, fragile ends don’t hold color as well as the rest of the hair. |
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Can I color my hair and have another chemical service, such as a perm or straightening treatment on the same day? |
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| ROY: |
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Having multiple chemical processes done on the same day is a big no no for me. I find that doing so can really rob hair of its shine and vitality in a non-reversible way. But I totally understand your desire for change (it’s human nature to want what we don’t have. I, myself, can totally relate to that phenomenon.) So to answer your question: First get your straightening or waving process and then wait a week for it to settle in and allow your hair to recover. Then, get your color. If you do your color first, your second process may alter it. |
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My hair is very long, will that make it harder to color? |
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While it certainly won’t make it harder it will require a greater investment of time from you and your colorist. Just be sure to keep getting your ends trimmed regularly to prevent them from becoming damaged. Typically dry, fragile ends don’t hold color as well as the rest of the hair. |
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I know I should wear a hat in the
summer on weekends when I go to the beach to protect my color but my baseball
cap always leaves a ring on my forehead and on my hair that takes forever
to go away. I’ve tried making the cap looser but then it flies off
my head when it’s breezy. What can I do? |
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| ROY: |
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Actually, if you really want to prevent your color from
fading, it would be a great idea to keep your head covered whenever
you’re
going to be outside for an extended period of time—whether or not
you are at the beach. For those occasions, you’ll find a silk headscarf
will fashionably cover up your color without leaving any telltale
signs. On weekends, when you’re all about a baseball cap, keep the
band loose and pin it into place with a bobby pin or two at the back
and if there is a hole on top of the cap. This should prevent it
from sailing into the ocean without creating any obvious lines. Also,
try wearing the cap back to front as if you were about to hit the
batting cage for the first 15-minutes or so. This way, the beak of
the cap will also protect your hair in the back. And don’t forget
to use color protective shampoos and conditioners such as COLOR ASSURE replenishing nutrient shampoo and COLOR ENSURE acidifying conditioner & detangler. |
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In the sixth issue of the Fresh Hair newsletter you recommend
using a clear neutral gloss to seal in color and add shine. Is there one
in particular that you like? |
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I love gloss and I am quite sure you will too. I consider it detox for your hair. It revives bounce and body, coats your hair to lock in color and protect it from damage and can impart tremendous luminosity. In my experience, they all pretty much work the same way but there can be subtle differences that could affect a particular product’s outcome in your hair. So really your best bet is to ask your stylist and/or colorist to see which brand he or she recommends for your hair type and its condition. |
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I just got my hair colored and I am not sure if I like it or not. When will I know for sure? |
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A week is pretty much the standard time. It takes color about that long to settle down, behave itself and reveal its true colors, so to speak. Fresh color is always a little unnaturally bright. If you decide then that you don't like it, please don't waste any time in returning to your colorist to fix it. If you wait too much longer, the salon really isn't obligated to give you a "do over." |
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I'd like to make my hair darker. But I am worried it will look fake. What's the best way to make sure it looks natural? |
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I love it when women aren't afraid of the dark. Of course the light is beautiful too. But darker tones can look so rich and sophisticated and are feeling very modern to me right now. The most important thing to think about when going darker is that this process isn't just about striving for one perfect color—say blue/black, for example, which seldom exists in nature. Dark hair is always a mixture of varying browns, reds, and sometimes even a bit of blonde. Talk to your colorist about using multi-tonalities to create a more natural looking darker color with depth, shine, and vibrancy. |
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No matter what I do, my color seems to fade in a red-hot minute. Is there anyway I can hold on to it? |
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| ROY: |
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It’s certainly no fun to leave the salon with vibrant, shimmering hair only to wake up to bland strands just two short weeks later. To make your color go the distance, I definitely recommend using hair products with a UV inhibitor/protector and even wearing a hat or scarf whenever possible. Water is actually another color fader; it literally washes your hue down the drain so it's really important not to shampoo your hair or swim for at least 24-hours after your process.
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Why do I have so many more grays in the front and sides of my hair than in the back? |
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| ROY: |
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I don’t mean to be fresh, Darling, but the truth is that you probably only think you have more grays around your hairline than on the rest of your head. The reason? Those are the gray hairs that you can actually see on a daily basis. Few of us really look at the backs of our head and that may not be such a bad idea. My friend Cara has a strict policy of never looking at the back of her head or her rear view. She reasons that if she doesn’t see them, she can’t find any problems with them. I think these are words that we could all live by. Never look back. |
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No matter how light and sun-kissed I go with my hair color and highlights, I seem to look so washed-out and pale this time of year. What am I doing wrong? |
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| ROY: |
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Actually, going lighter and brighter with your hair in the winter is like wearing a fur coat in the middle of July. You look great in the coat and July is a wonderful month but you'd definitely be better off that time of year wearing a bikini. Winter is the time to think about creating contrast between your hair and your complexion, which becomes fairer then, rather than trying to match them more closely. As you've seen for yourself, the end results can be quite deadening. Deeper, less drastic lowlights and somewhat darker highlights will really add a flattering warmth and depth to your hair and your complexion. Save going beach blonde for the beach.
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Disguising dark roots
When your highlights start to move over to the dark side and you need a quick fix, try sprinkling baby powder onto your part and brushing it through; it will give the overall impression that your hair is lighter and brighter.
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Volumizing hair color
While coloring is a great way to give fine hair some oomph, beware of going too blonde since lighter colors can make hair appear transparent, which means it will look even thinner than it actually is. Golden, warmer, denser colors give the illusion of thicker hair |
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Color your hair not your skin
If you are coloring your hair yourself, safeguard the skin around your hairline from stains by applying a layer of lip balm, petroleum jelly, or a hair mask before your color. The emollient ingredients in these products will help prevent the dye's pigments from seeping into your skin. |
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Covering up gray roots To cover gray roots in a pinch, many makeup artists like to use a dense powder eyeshadow that matches the hair color. Apply it with an eyeshadow brush directly onto the roots of dry hair. |
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Before you color your hairThe day or two before any coloring service, wash your hair with ALOE RID gentle clarifying shampoo to remove any built-up oil, dirt, and styling product which can create a barrier
that prevents color from penetrating and/or sticking to the hair shaft.
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Hiding gray hairs To hide grays without coloring, comb your hair toward your face rather than back and away from it. You will call less attention to the hairline, which is where grays are the most visible since your face is the first thing people see. |
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Color highlightsHighlights add volume to limp locks because bleaching increases static electricity (yes there is a good kind). Late for your touch up? Use a body building mousse such as MOUSSE PLUS alcohol-free volumizing foam styler, on the roots.
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Picture perfect hair For ultra-lustrous locks in pictures, instead of traditional foil wrapped highlights, try Baliage, a freehand application of hair color, which imparts more natural looking chunkier highlights. It's much softer, shinier, and less aggressive than highlights and photographs beautifully.
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Keeping strong, healthy-looking, soft, and silky color-treated hairTo ensure that color-treated hair is strong, healthy-looking, soft, and silky, use a gentle shampoo and a strengthening conditioner, such as COLOR ASSURE replenishing nutrient shampoo and COLOR ENSURE replenishing conditioner & detangler, at least every other time you suds up.
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Caring for color treated hairAdding subtle highlights around the hairline just before the summer is a great way to enhance ones color and also insures a beautiful color going into the fall.
Prior to coloring, it's important to give your hair extra attention.
Use Nexxus ALOE RID gentle clarifying shampoo before your color
process to insure a deeper penetration of the color, giving longer
lasting brighter results. Try Nexxus KERApHIX restorative conditioner to intensively moisturize
and help protect hair.
While it may seem counter-intuitive, going lighter, and blonder with your highlights will not warm up winter-wan skin, In fact, it can make you look paler since there will be less contrast between your face and your hair and contrast helps keep your look lively and light. Try going to a richer and deeper base color than you wear in the summer and keep your highlights narrower and less drastic. Both your skin and hair will look more glowing and radiant.
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REVIVE or TAME
YOUR STYLE |
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STYLE |
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| Q: |
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I've heard that brushing your hair can make it fall out. Is that true? |
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| ROY: |
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A good brushing can loosen the dulling dirt and debris that could otherwise cling to hair even after shampooing. It also stimulates that scalp's oil glands, which can help create lustrous locks and make hair easier to work with. It is doubtful, however, that the act of brushing can make your hair fall out from the roots. Brushing too vigorously and/over brushing (say that oft-quoted obsessive and potentially damaging 100 strokes a day) can cause split ends and breakage. |
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In the "Start Teasing" article in a past Fresh Hair, you recommend back-combing as a way of adding volume and texture. But my hair is pretty damaged and brittle. Is that a good styling technique for me? |
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| ROY: |
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Sadly, no. When done the right way on healthy hair, teasing is a fabulous way to add lasting texture, thickness, and volume. But because you're using your comb to literally rough up the cuticle, teasing, especially when done too aggressively or frequently, can be damaging to your hair. And if your hair is already skating on thin ice, I certainly wouldn't put anymore pressure on it. Instead, divide dry hair into medium-sized sections. Then, working one section at a time, hold each one perpendicular to your scalp and then spray with COMB THRU natural hold design and finishing mist before wrapping it around a self-grip or hot roller. Let sit for at least 20-minutes before removing. Gently comb through your curls with your fingers but leave the volume at your roots in tact. |
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| Q: |
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I just got a perm and I cannot tell you how miserable I am with the results. Should I get a Japanese Straightening Treatment to unkink these awful corkscrews? |
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| ROY: |
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My heart goes out to you. To dream of beachy waves or soft cascading curls only to be confronted with a style that even a poodle would turn up his nose at is distressing to say the least. But the worst thing you can do is to traumatize your hair further with another aggressive chemical process. Those types of straightening treatments always carry a high risk of drying, frying, and breaking hair and they will be even more likely to do so now that your hair has already been through an extreme process. I would first schedule an appointment with your stylist; I have found that a good haircut pretty much solves everything—even if you have to go shorter than you'd like. You can also try loosening up your curls by blowing them dry using a round brush and/or wrapping large sections of hair around self-grip or hot rollers. It sounds counter intuitive but these techniques can turn tight curls into soft waves. In the end, you and your stylist both may decide that some relaxing is in order, but you can get straightening and smoothing results using a gentler, less severe, process than the Japanese method. |
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I have pretty wavy hair that I usually just let go natural. But once in awhile I have it blown out smooth and then everyone raves about how beautiful it looks—a compliment I don’t generally hear when I leave my hair up to its own natural devices. Do you think I should get one of those Japanese straightening treatments? |
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| ROY: |
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Absolutely not! I think what people are responding to is that you look strikingly different from your usual self. And everyone but everyone loves a surprise! If you wore your hair straight all the time, probably everyone would tell you how much better they liked it with a wave. Besides, if you straighten your hair you will lose your freedom of choice. Relaxed hair cannot hold a wave or curl. Right now, you have the best of both worlds since you can wear it straight or curly and I think many chemically sleekified-girls, as beautiful as they are, would love that option. |
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I have been debating getting “permanent” hair extensions but they seem to be drawing mixed reviews. What are your thoughts? |
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| ROY: |
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Personally, I am not their biggest fan. I find that they can really damage hair and look pretty fake and awful, especially on people with fine hair. In addition, a lot of people seem to find the glue that is used to be irritating and somewhat annoying as the hair grows out. I actually prefer hair weaves, done, of course, by a rock solid talented pro. I think they look a lot more natural and they definitely damage the hair less. |
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I have pretty wavy hair that I usually just let go natural. But once in awhile I have it blown out smooth and then everyone raves about how beautiful it looks—a compliment I don’t generally hear when I leave my hair up to its own natural devices. Do you think I should get one of those Japanese straightening treatments? |
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Absolutely not! I think what people are responding to is that you look strikingly different from your usual self. And everyone but everyone loves a surprise! If you wore your hair straight all the time, probably everyone would tell you how much better they liked it with a wave. Besides, if you straighten your hair you will lose your freedom of choice. Relaxed hair cannot hold a wave or curl. Right now, you have the best of both worlds since you can wear it straight or curly and I think many chemically sleekified-girls, as beautiful as they are, would love that option. |
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I have fairly short hair that looks
really great when it’s casual and tousled but I can’t seem
to figure out what to do with it when I dress up. Is there some way I can
make it look more polished and sophisticated? |
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Absolutely. Shorter hair is so much more versatile than most
people think it is and it just looks so fresh and modern right now. I think you will find that you can create the effect you are looking for by first applying SLEEKSTYLE calming smoothing creme into damp hair and then using a paddle brush and blow dryer with a directional nozzle to style your hair flat against your head framing your face, rather than tousling your hair up and away from it. Finish with a light misting of COMB THRU natural hold design and finishing mist |
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I keep hearing that you should wait
till your hair is completely cool and dry before removing rollers and that
you should blast your hair with the cool shot setting before taking out
the round brush when you're blowing it dry smooth. Some days I just
don't have the time for the extra steps. Do I really need to take
them? |
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Only if you want your hair to look its best and for your hard
work to go the distance. The reason? The heat stretches and molds the bonds
of your hair to straighten, curl, wave it, and what have you. If you keep
touching your hair and moving it around while it's still warm, it'll
just start to do something else rather than keep the shape you've created.
Cooling a section of hair before you move onto the next one literally freezes
the style you've just made into place. |
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I’ve gone to stylists who use more than one product in my hair when they’re blowing it dry. Should I be doing that too? |
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It really depends on the mood of the hair, which we all know, is extremely capricious. Sometimes, one product will provide great shine but give no hold, or great body but not enough texture. There usually is no one product that does everything. If you love a product but find that it sometimes needs a little extra something, creating your own recipe can give you the look you're after. I like to use both MOUSSE PLUS alcohol free volumizing foam styler and VERSASTYLER artistic designing lotion on women with especially fine and limp hair. DESIGNING TEXXTUR high fashion texture creme gives great texture, shine, and frizz control but if you find you need extra hold, you might want to mix it with a tiny—and I mean tiny—drop of EXXTRA GEL super hold styling sculptor. Asking your stylist or experimenting on your own is the best way to find your recipe for success. |
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My cowlick has driven me crazy my whole life. Isn't there anything I can do to control it? |
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Cowlicks, indeed, can be like wild beasts—notoriously difficult to tame. But don’t worry; think of me as the Cowlick Whisperer. Calming a cowlick is actually really quite simple, which is no doubt why it seems so hard. When you blow dry, use your brush to stretch it in the opposite direction of its growth. Then, take your blow dryer and concentrate the nozzle at the roots, moving slowly down toward the ends. Think of it as though you are ironing out some particularly difficult wrinkles in your favorite shirt. Your cowlick will then follow your every command. |
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Frizz seems to have become my middle name. Is there anyway I can banish it from my life? |
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| ROY: |
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Now that does sound serious, although I have to tell you that I know people who have Frizz as a first name so you're not as bad off as you think. All kidding aside, though, constant frizz is a sign of ongoing dryness. Your hair is literally trying to suck up moisture from the environment and is expanding as it does so. If you're not using them already, switch to an ultra-hydrating shampoo and conditioner, such as, THERAPPE luxury moisturizing shampoo and HUMECTRESS ultimate moisturizing conditioner. You may also need to change your styling products to more moisturizing formulations. See our "Profiler" for your personalized plan. I have also found that many people shampooing technique can add to the problem. Most of us have the habit of piling our hair up on the top of our heads and then scrubbing it with shampoo. But this actually causes tangles and creates frizz, since you are roughing up the cuticle. Instead, use your fingertips to massage shampoo into wet hair working your way down from the roots to ends.
Meanwhile, it may also be time to throw in the towel. Wrapping your head up turban style post-shampoo can over dry the ends, causing them to fluff up and fly away. You'd be better served by the towel if you just use it to gently blot your hair.
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I've tried tons of different styling products and no matter what I do my hair always seems to be flat and a little greasy looking. What am I doing wrong? |
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| ROY: |
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I think we might need to revise your application technique a bit. To prevent styling product over load, instead of plopping a big blob onto the top and front of your hair (an amazingly common mistake) start by using a small—as in dime-sized—dab on the back and sides of your hair, which tend to be the unruliest. You can always add a drop more if you need to. Make sure you hit your ends, as well. Then use the remaining tiny bit that's left over on the top and front. This method should stop that "glued" down look dead in its tracks. If you're still unhappy with your results, I would consult with a hairstylist about your cut: it may simply not be the right one for your hair texture.
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My hair is so limp in the winter. Help! |
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Many things can cause lifeless hair: excess oil in your scalp; a too-strong conditioner; dry, cold air, or styling product residue. You may be using too much product or the wrong type this time of year in the hopes of making your hair fuller, but in reality, that's the fastest way to flatness.
To boost body, start by getting your hair and scalp completely clean and free of any styling product build-up, dirt, or excess oil by shampooing every other time with ALOE RID gentle clarifying shampoo. It'll become bouncier after even just one shampoo. During your next shampoo, try using DIAMETRESS luscious hair-thickening shampoo, which really does thicken fine hair beautifully without drying it out, which can make hair look even flatter. Follow up with HEADRESS volumizing leave-in conditioner, which will add bounce, volume, and shine, while protecting and restoring the health of your hair.
For styling, VERSASTYLER artistic designing lotion is perfect for you because it is so lightweight yet adds body and literally "memorizes" your style so it lasts all day.
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Creating loose waves If you’re pressed for styling time, before you hit the shower, set medium-sized sections of dry hair in self-grip rollers and wrap your hair up turban style. The steam will create loose, pretty, undone waves. Just be sure to keep you head away from the running water.
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Get truly amazing stop-dead-in-your-tracks beautiful hair This may not sound especially sexy, but to have truly amazing stop-dead-in-your-tracks-beautiful hair, it's best to work with its natural texture rather than against it the majority of the time. (I wholeheartedly embrace pulling out all the stops for special occasions.) The more you have to force it with blow dryers, flat irons, curling irons, and chemical processes, the more damaged it will become and frustrated you will be—not to mention all the time you will waste.
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For a perfectly polished easy updoFor a perfectly polished, easy and unfussy up-do, first work a smoothing and styling gel, such as EXXTRA GEL super hold styling sculptor, which can be used on damp or dry hair, evenly throughout hair. Then, finger comb hair and smooth it into a low ponytail; add another rubber band at the end of the ponytail for greater control. Next, twist into a casual version of the classic chignon and pin into place.
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Revive your style To make even the most tired looking of celebrities seem wide-awake and bursting with energy, red carpet stylists, including myself, often pull hair into a high ponytail or a tight chignon to add instant lift to the face. It's got such a ready for action appeal. |
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Controlling frizz with curly hair To help control frizz, when blow drying curly hair, only dry it 80 percent of the way. If you’re blow drying your hair smooth and your bangs end up looking poufy, mist them with a little water and use your fingers to pull hair down flat and taut as you blow dry using a directional nozzle. Next, use your round brush to smooth the ends under while still blow-drying.
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Controlling static and smooth flyawaysTo control static and smooth flyaways, spray a bit of lightweight hair spray, such as COMB THRU natural hold design and finishing mist, into the palms of your hands and gently pat onto the top layer of your hair. |
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Eliminate frizz If your blow dryer lacks a cool shot button, which helps to eliminate frizz and create shine, aim the heat away from a just dried section and let it cool for at least five seconds while it's still around the brush. |
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Make sure your styling products work their hardest To make sure your styling products work their hardest, always apply them to well towel-dried hair. (Blot, don't rub or you'll create frizz.) Any styler is fairly likely to just slide off soaking wet stands.
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Prevent breakage and split ends To help prevent breakage and split ends, always comb hair starting at the ends and then gradually work your way up the shaft to gently de tangle knots. Trying to comb them out starting at the roots and working your way down is far more painful and can damage hair. |
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Boost volumeTo get that professional blown out look, apply body-building Nexxus MOUSSE PLUS alcohol free volumizing foam styler foam styler to the roots and use your fingers to lift them up while blow drying on a low setting. For those who prefer lotions to mousse, try the VERSASTYLER artistic designing lotion the same way.
I always advise my clients to be equipped with a professional blow dryer with a nozzle that directs the heat for better results, the right brush for your hair, and the right products. These are all ways of accomplishing salon results at home.
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Revive or tame your styleWind, rain, and humidity can all cause even the most flawlessly styled hair to grow to new heights or flatten down to new lows. If you find this happening to you, simply scrunch some DESIGNING TEXXTUR high fashion texture crème into your ends in an upward movement. The tube is small enough to slip into your bag so you can use it anywhere. And you'll find that it will refresh and revive your look just like a fresh application of gloss.
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Make your blowout go the distanceTo make your blowout go the distance, hats can really help. First apply Nexxus VERSASTYLER artistic designing lotion to the roots (so hair won't be completely flat) and HEAT PROTEXX heat protection styling spray from the mid-shaft to the ends to add crucial moisture and protect it from styling damage. Blow dry as you normally would until hair is about 80 percent dry then, switch to the cool setting on your dryer. Lastly, dab a little DESIGNING TEXXTUR high fashion texture crème onto the ends to add more moisture and shine. When hair is completely cool and dry pull on a close fitting knit cap (a baseball cap will leave a band around your head.) "This trick really helps keep your beautifully smooth".
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Avoiding hat hairTo stop hat hair dead in its tracks wait till hair is completely cool and dry before you put one on. |
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CONDITION |
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| Q: |
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I have extensions and my hair is starting to break. What should I do? |
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| ROY: |
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I hate to break it to you (sorry, poor choice of words) but it's time you head to an extensions expert stat, who will most likely rule in favor of removing them—a crushing blow, I know, given that you probably shelled out about a grand for them. But clearly, the tension they are creating on your scalp and natural hair is way too stressful for you. |
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I’ve heard that shampooing my hair every day will dry it out. Is that true? |
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| ROY: |
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"Second day" hair—the day after it's shampooed— can be easier to style and can look smoother than freshly washed locks since they will have more natural oils present, but the actual act of shampooing your hair every day shouldn't dry it out, if you use the right shampoo and follow up with a conditioner. If you have dry, thick, coarse or chemically processed hair, make sure to use an ultra moisturizing shampoo such as THERAPPE luxury moisturizing shampoo and follow up with a rich conditioner such as HUMECTRESS ultimate moisturizing conditioner. If you have fine/limp or oily hair, shampoo daily using a bodifying shampoo like DIAMETRESS luscious hair-thickening shampoo and follow up with a lightweight conditioner, such as HEADRESS ultimate moisturizing conditioner. |
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OK, I admit it. Sometimes during the week I stay out till all hours and then set my alarm a lot later than I should. Is there anyway that I can freshen up my hair for those mornings when I don't have time to shampoo? |
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I think we've all been guilty of committing the "I know I should go home and get some sleep so I can get up and go to work tomorrow but I am having too much fun to leave" crime. But the state of your hair needn't give away your night owl ways. Before heading out the door, pick up your round brush and blow dryer to smooth out bed head and pump up stringiness—a sure sign you slept in and didn't have time to shampoo. It shouldn't take you but a few minutes. To cancel out any cigarette smoke or any other party odors that may still be stubbornly clinging to your strands, lightly spritz them with an alcohol-free fragranced mist, which many cosmetics companies have created specifically to scent your hair without drying it out. |
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I have hair so fine and limp that even a wet noodle has more life. But so many bodybuilding products make me look I’ve just stuck my finger in a socket; I get so many flyaways it’s unbelievable. What am I doing wrong? |
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I am pretty sure it’s not you or anything you are doing. It may just be the products you are using. Many volumizing formulations are designed to be somewhat drying to help treat the oily scalps that can weigh the roots of the hair down. But when they are overly drying, they can cause frizz and the flyaways that seem to be plaguing you. Even fine, flat hair needs moisture. So I would recommend you switch to bodyifying products that also hydrate, such as our DIAMETRESS luscious hair thickening shampoo and HEADRESS volumizing leave-in conditioner. |
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No matter all the shaping and coaxing I do to try and keep my curls curly, I still seem to wind up with a head full of frizz. Is there anyway I can keep my curls together? |
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| ROY: |
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I think you may be trying too hard to make them behave and that’s what’s causing them to act out—kind of like most of us do when we are forced to do something we don’t want to do. To keep your curls defined and controlled, you actually should be touching them as little as possible (once you work your product in), both when they are wet and when they are dry. If you can’t keep your hands to yourself (and few us of can) and your hair starts to lift and separate throughout the day, I recommend patting a little DESIGNING TEXXTUR high fashion texture crème onto your ends as you cup your curls using an upward movement. You might also want to re-consider your hairstyle. A good cut can really help control curls and keep them looking their most beautiful. |
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I have hair so fine and limp that even a wet noodle has more life. But so many bodybuilding products make me look I’ve just stuck my finger in a socket; I get so many flyaways it’s unbelievable. What am I doing wrong? |
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| ROY: |
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I am pretty sure it’s not you or anything you are doing. It may just be the products you are using. Many volumizing formulations are designed to be somewhat drying to help treat the oily scalps that can weigh the roots of the hair down. But when they are overly drying, they can cause frizz and the flyaways that seem to be plaguing you. Even fine, flat hair needs moisture. So I would recommend you switch to bodyifying products that also hydrate, such as our DIAMETRESS luscious hair thickening shampoo and HEADRESS volumizing leave-in conditioner. |
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